Travels

Family Fado night in the La Alfama neighborhood in Lisbon

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The Alfama neighborhood encompasses the nostalgic, poetic and rogue essence of Lisbon. With their clothes hanging, the slopes with unpredictable views, suggestive alleys, dark taverns and dim lights at nightfall continue to hypnotize the traveler, but I also noticed that there is a certain danger of extinction as announced by the journalist Rafa Pérez a while ago.

The Alfama is also fado and the lights at sunset invite it. The breeze of the Tagus on the ocher walls seems to throw a sad tune and the hanging sheets fan the score.

Alfama is the cradle of the most characteristic music of Lisbon: Fado. He was born in this same neighborhood, which also has an interesting museum to learn about the history of this sad song but which in turn can give you a few hours of smiles and fun.

It is what happened to us. Strolling through the streets of La Afama we got the appetite of listening to fado and we looked for among its locals the ideal place to do it.

We avoid the most professional places. Not only for their prices that in some cases escaped our budget. We understood that fado is the song of the street, of universal feelings and where customers also point to joy and tears.

On the street Rua de Sao Pedro we find a place called Alfama corner and it turned out to be what we were looking for.

In this restaurant, while you enjoy the show, they offer food at affordable prices (cod dishes at about 15 euros) as long as you avoid the usual entrees that deposit at your table and then charge if you touch them or shots after dinner (which cost the whopping seven euros each).

In the Corner of Alfama gives you the feeling of being among family. Here you will not find fado professionals. We were surprised to see how the waiter, the grandmother, the grandson and his girlfriend, the owner and the boy at the door sang their particular vision of Portuguese fado, cheerful, sad and catchy.

The amateur singers showed good voice, good purposes and above all, eager to have fun, something that spread quickly. A group of Brazilians next to us knew the lyrics and signed up for the party while one gets dumbfounded and claps when he touches or mixes the shades of fado with the taste of bacalhau grelhado in the mouth. A real pleasure that I will surely repeat one day.

5.002

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